The longest run I participated in was the ‘Laya Run.’ It took more than 12 hours to run up the hills, over the mountains, and awe-inspiring passes. It’s one of the most challenging and grueling ultra-endurance high-altitude races in the world. Laya Run offers impressive views of some of Bhutan’s most pristine and unspoiled landscapes through steep ascend and descent. 

Usually, to reach up to nomads’ land, it’s said that tourists take two days. Tour companies offer a ‘glamping’ trekking experience while local people half a day, especially porters and I, made it to Laya after 12 hours of the strenuous run. I didn’t run; instead, I walked more and ran seldom.

The journey to Laya was an incredible experience. The route leads through the most remote areas up to very high altitudes. You meet local nomads and horse herders on the way, and they are very kind to guests with a broad smile on their cheeky red faces.

For runners, few stations were set up to provide food, tented shelters, and water rations for those who choose to avail it. Even medical personnel were well equipped in case runners fell sick. For those non-participants or trekkers, there were few local vendors selling food along the trail. However, you need not worry about the food and snacks. Local porters and headers stop by the stalls for food.

After a tiring 10 hours run and walk uphill, the first house I came across was a two-storied Bhutanese house built using wood and CGI sheet and painted with great Bhutanese arts. Traditionally the pitched roof is clad with wooden shingles held down by stones, but more commonly, they are being replaced by corrugated iron. Timbers are extensively used, ranging from columns, beams, joints, windows, doors, and other decorative elements to the built house.

These timber elements are painted from plain color to the most intricate and elaborate Buddhist symbols and flora and fauna motifs. I was flabbergasted to see CGI sheets roofing at an elevation of 3800 – 4100 meters above sea level. More than 100 households live in the clustered village, and the houses they were living in were all lavishly built in typical Bhutanese architecture.

The bedroom of Layap is all filled with steel boxes, a made-in-China blanket, and a few yak wool blankets. The shelf of their kitchen is decorated with all-size bronze cooking pots and a flask. Almost all men from each household own foreign compound bow and arrow for recreational archery matches. Our host said the more significant the compound bows, the richer they are considered in the community. Their source of income is cordyceps. The only crop they grow is barley. However, these indigenous people still practice the migration of their domestic animals, especially yaks. During harsh winters, Layaps migrate southwards to Punakha.

The souvenir that Layaps produce is sun-dried cheese. In the local term, they call it ‘chugo,’ popularly known as Bhutanese cheese candy. They also collect cordyceps and sell the products. Furthermore, some households raise high breed mastiffs called ‘jobchi’ to be sold to the people outside Gasa. I was told these local folks even hire the Bhutan Helicopter Services to stock rations and buy compound bows and arrows from Thimphu. After seeing and experiencing the local lifestyle at Laya, I can say that they are wealthy, hospitable, and generous people.

No wonder why Gasa is considered one of the wealthiest districts in Bhutan. Don’t be surprised if you see locals there carrying the latest cell phones and gadgets. I was shocked to my feet. The Gasa-Laya trek also offers a day or night of relaxation at the famous ‘Gasa hot spring’ that is sure to rejuvenate you for yet another odyssey.