Since 16th century
Zhemgang has filled my childhood memories. I have traveled to Panbang dungkhag under Zhemgang in 1995. Back than travelers had to take the road through Manas National Park via India. It would take two days to travel to Zhemgang Dzong from Panbang. Back then there was no road infrastructure nor electricity. Although the place was isolated and least developed, people were the happiest and most content. Some lived in thatched-roof bamboo homes, sipping on tongba with just one meal daily.
Today Zhemgang continues to remain as the least visited tourist destination despite its numerous ecotourism resources and famous landmarks in the country. Zhemgang is the only district in the country with the highest forest coverage of 94.6%. Zhemgang is rich and abundant in its biodiversity. It is home to one of the largest parks, Royal Manas Park, and a biological corridor. The place also offers some of the best adventure activities, such as river rafting, hiking, cycling, and fly fishing. The location is seldom visited by international tourists for bird watching. Zhemgang is also a pilgrimage site. Domestic tourists often visit Buli and its important pilgrim site, including Duenmang Tsachu and other for potential eco-lodge staycation experiences.
Of all the landmarks, the poplar landmark that makes travel to Zhemgang complete and unique is the day excursion tour to Trong Heritage Village located in Upper Kheng. The heritage village stands overlooking the majestic Zhemgang Dzong. As a traveler, I have always wanted to visit this significant landmark that dates back to the 16th century. In June this year, I traveled to Zhemgang to relive my memorable days but, most importantly, to visit Trong Heritage Village, the unique Village that harkens back to medieval Bhutan when architectural grandeur flourished.
In the quiet Zhemgang town, as I parked my car in front of the shop, people around the vicinity came out to look at the new visitors who had just entered their area. Since it is a small town. Visitors are countable, and people welcome with a smile. Before I headed for the day excursion, I had to find a place to stay. A local directed me to one of only two hotels in Zhemgang town. Surprised by the number of hotels near the famous landmark, I asked the locals if there were any homestays at the heritage site. It was a big ”NO” and to add on, the person told me that there is only one taxi in Zhemgang town, which remains parked most of the time.
Finding these facts interesting, I checked in at one of the hotels, left my bag, and headed to the heritage village. It was a 3-minute walk from the town. There were two routes, entry and exit. The entrance from village from the town is more scenic than entering from the other side. Walking into the heritage site, I greeted and welcomed by humble yet cheerful children, the great-grandchildren of people who built their homes hundreds of years ago.
The Trong Heritage Village is an array of 27 traditional stone masonry houses clustered neatly on a small hillock overlooking the imposing Zhemgang dzong. Although the actual origin of the village and vintage traditional houses remains unknown but as per the elders of the village, it must have been there for hundreds of years and some dates back to 16th century. What is unique about the Village is all the houses were built without a proper foundation atop rocks.
According to the locals, the village has seen little change over the years. Earthquakes have not been able to cause damage to the houses in the Village. This has left experts intrigued with traditional masonry skills and craft work.
When His Majesty the King visited Trong Village in 2014, the residents of 27 households received 9 decimals of Khimsa land as Kidu from His Majesty The King. His Majesty than commanded the villagers to preserve their traditional homes for the village to retain its classic beauty. Today the residents take pride in living at one of Bhutan’s oldest heritage villages. The place is increasingly visited by domestic and a handful of international tourists.
Today street lamps, underground cable ducts, drainage, and concrete footpaths, among others, have also been developed over the years to support the community living in the village, but their aesthetic & originality is well preserved. Within that colony, there are few grocery shops and a salon. Imagine yourself getting a nice face massage at a hundred-year-old structure salon.
When you walk around the village, talk to local people to learn more about the village and their stories. If lucky, you might meet senior citizens basking under the sun who would most willingly share khengpa folk tales.
At the end of the heritage village is Trong Lhakhang. It overlooks the heritage village of Trong. The temple is a traditional Bhutanese stone house with an enclosed flagstone courtyard. The central statue inside the altar is Guru Nangsi Zilnon (semi-wrathful Padmasambhava) with his two consorts, Yeshey Tshogyal and Mandarava. The temple is also the goenkhang (altar of the protective deities), and the main deity is Palden Lhamo Remati (Shri Devi).
If you are traveling to Zhemgang, you must visit this heritage village . It will take you back to a time of rich cultural heritage and unique traditional architecture of Zhemgang the heart of ecotourism in country.